On New Wire Marine custom switch panels, we default to providing an ON/OFF switch only. We DO recomend every boat have an automatic (float switch) feed for the bilge pump, BUT we prefer the "auto" float switch lead be run directly from + on your battery (fused of course). This method of bi-passing your battery switch and switch panel makes certain that your float switch will turn on your bilge pump if it ever begins to fill up with water. If you ever leave your boat at the dock, this could keep your boat from sinking if you forget to turn your "auto" switch on, or even if you have your battery switch OFF.
The reason typically cited to NOT connect devices straight to the battery is that a trickle current (like from a GPS, or VHF) could drain it. BUT, there is little to no risk of this when a device (like a bilge pump) is connected with a physical disconnect switch (like a float switch).
Furthermore, even if you trailer your boat how do you compare: 1) the risk of draining a battery because you left the plug in and the bilge pump had to pump rain water out all night - 2) with the risk that you decide to unexpectedly leave your boat at a friend's dock for the weekend and return to find it swamped, or worse... sunk?
In conclusion, You DO need an automatic bilge pump, but there is little justification for putting a switch on the "automatic" feed, and there is substantial risk reduced by NOT putting the auto feed on a switch.
...but that's just our recommendation, it's your boat, and New Wire Marine is here to help.
Here's a wiring digram of what we're talking about:
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ReplyDeleteTHis is the miracle, As we know about this one with more difficult for pumps.
ReplyDelete